{"id":4729,"date":"2020-02-15T11:57:34","date_gmt":"2020-02-15T10:57:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.presasg8.es\/escalade-a-tokyo-2020\/"},"modified":"2020-02-15T11:57:34","modified_gmt":"2020-02-15T10:57:34","slug":"escalade-a-tokyo-2020","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.presasg8.es\/fr\/escalade-a-tokyo-2020\/","title":{"rendered":"ESCALADE \u00c0 TOKYO 2020"},"content":{"rendered":"
Comme beaucoup d’entre nous le savent, l’escalade sera un sport olympique \u00e0 Tokyo en 2020 et il y aura trois modalit\u00e9s pour choisir le grimpeur le plus polyvalent de la plan\u00e8te.<\/p>\n
Les trois modalit\u00e9s selon lesquelles la discipline sera divis\u00e9e seront les suivantes :<\/p>\n
\n
Test d’<\/strong> escalade de bloc (\u00e9galement appel\u00e9 escalade de bloc). Lors de ce test, les participants devront r\u00e9soudre des mouvements extr\u00eamement difficiles sur un mur ou un panneau ne d\u00e9passant pas 5 m\u00e8tres de hauteur. Escalade sans corde avec des difficult\u00e9s entre 8a-8b bouldering<\/li>\n
Mode vitesse<\/strong> (la plus visuelle et la moins compliqu\u00e9e) l’escalade sur des prises d\u00e9j\u00e0 connues des grimpeurs o\u00f9 la vitesse d’ascension dans la voie est la plus importante, pour nous c’est l’escalade la moins pure de ce sport car elle n’est pas du tout transposable \u00e0 l’escalade en milieu naturel.<\/li>\n
Tests de difficult\u00e9 ou escalade en t\u00eate<\/strong>, le test qui se rapproche le plus de l’escalade sur rocher ou sur mur, bien que la longueur des voies n’exc\u00e8de pas 15 \u00e0 20 m\u00e8tres de hauteur, escalade avec corde et assurage.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
De nos jours, les grimpeurs ont tendance \u00e0 se concentrer sur les deux modalit\u00e9s principales que sont l’escalade de difficult\u00e9 et l’escalade de bloc. L’escalade de vitesse regroupe les grimpeurs qui n’ont pas un certain niveau d’escalade mais qui ont un certain niveau de vitesse, c’est pourquoi cette discipline a \u00e9t\u00e9 tr\u00e8s discut\u00e9e dans le monde de l’escalade, mais le CIO la r\u00e9glemente.<\/p>\n
Escalade et grimpeurs en Espagne<\/strong><\/p>\n
Ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, l’Espagne a \u00e9t\u00e9 l’un des pays o\u00f9 la culture de l’escalade sportive est la plus d\u00e9velopp\u00e9e, et de nombreux grimpeurs importants ont d\u00e9crit notre p\u00e9ninsule comme un haut lieu de l’escalade sportive.<\/p>\n
R\u00e9gions d’escalade telles que La Pedriza, Cuenca, Oliana, Margalef, Siurana, Rodellar, El Chorro, Montanejos, Riglos, Naranjo de Bulnes, Chulilla, Albarrac\u00edn. ont \u00e9t\u00e9 visit\u00e9s par d’innombrables grimpeurs du monde entier et ont \u00e9t\u00e9 l’\u00e9cole de tr\u00e8s grands grimpeurs espagnols tels que : Bernab\u00e9 Fern\u00e1ndez, Rikar Otegui, Ram\u00f3n Juli\u00e1n, Patxi Usobiaga, Dani Andrada, Edu Mar\u00edn, Iker Pou, Luis Alfonso Felix, Pablo Barbero, Iban Larri\u00f3n, Dani fuertes, Jorge Diaz-Rulo, Gonzalo Larrocha, Gerard Rull, Josune Bereciartu, Berta Mart\u00edn, Esther Bullido, Eva Lopez, Andrea Cartas, Mar Alvarez, Eilleen Jubes, Daila Ojeda et d’innombrables autres grimpeurs oubli\u00e9s.<\/p>\n
Il est dommage que nous n’ayons pas pu voir ces monstres concourir aux Jeux olympiques, car beaucoup d’entre eux ne sont plus au meilleur de leur forme en raison de l’\u00e2ge ou de blessures chroniques, ils nous auraient donn\u00e9 beaucoup de joie.<\/p>\n
Le grand espoir de l’Espagne<\/strong><\/p>\n
Bien que les grimpeurs susmentionn\u00e9s ne participeront pas aux Jeux olympiques de Tokyo en 2020, le tr\u00e8s jeune grimpeur de 17 ans originaire de C\u00e1ceres, Alberto Gin\u00e9s<\/strong>, a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 se qualifier pour se mesurer aux plus grands grimpeurs d’aujourd’hui. A partir de l\u00e0, nous vous souhaitons beaucoup de chance, de tranquillit\u00e9 d’esprit, de nerfs d’acier et de cha\u00eenes.<\/p>\n
On dit que malgr\u00e9 son jeune \u00e2ge, ses vertus sont la maturit\u00e9 et le calme, esp\u00e9rons le voir sur la plus haute marche du podium, bonne chance !<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n<\/figure>\n
Les autres athl\u00e8tes qualifi\u00e9s seront :<\/h3>\n
Les hommes :<\/p>\n
\n
1) Tomoa Narasaki (Japon)<\/li>\n
2. Jakob Schubert (Autriche)<\/li>\n
3. Rishat Khaibullin (Kazakhstan)<\/li>\n
4. Kai Harada (Japon)<\/li>\n
5. Mickael Mawem (France)<\/li>\n
6. Alex Megos (Allemagne)<\/li>\n
7. Ludovico Fossali (Italie)<\/li>\n
8. Sean McColl (Canada)<\/li>\n
9. Adam Ondra (R\u00e9p. tch\u00e8que)<\/li>\n
10. Bassa Mawem (France)<\/li>\n
11. Jan Hojer (Allemagne)<\/li>\n
12. YuFei Pan (Chine)<\/li>\n
13. Alberto Gin\u00e9s (Espagne)<\/strong><\/li>\n
14. Nathaniel Coleman (USA)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Les femmes :<\/p>\n
\n
1. Janja Garnbret (Slov\u00e9nie)<\/li>\n
2. Akiyo Noguchi (Japon)<\/li>\n
3. Shauna Coxsey (Royaume-Uni)<\/li>\n
4. Aleksandra Miroslaw (Pologne)<\/li>\n
5. Miho Nonaka (Japon)<\/li>\n
6. Petra Klingler (Suisse)<\/li>\n
7. Brooke Raboutou (USA)<\/li>\n
8. Jessica Pilz (Autriche)<\/li>\n
9. Julia Chanourdie (France)<\/li>\n
10. Mia Krampl (Slov\u00e9nie)<\/li>\n
11. Iuliia Kaplina (Russie)<\/li>\n
12. Kyra Condie (USA)<\/li>\n
13. Laura Rogora (Italie)<\/li>\n
14. YiLing Song (Chine)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
D\u00e9but des essais<\/strong><\/p>\n
Les \u00e9v\u00e9nements se d\u00e9rouleront au Aomi Urban Sports Park, \u00e0 Tokyo,<\/em> et les dates seront les suivantes :<\/p>\n
04\/08\/2020 de 17:00 \u00e0 22:40 J.S.T. Classement hommes.<\/p>\n
05\/08\/2020 de 17:00 \u00e0 22:40 J.S.T. Classement f\u00e9minin.<\/p>\n
06\/08\/2020 de 17:00 \u00e0 22:40 J.S.T. Finale hommes.<\/p>\n
07\/08\/20120de 17:00 \u00e0 22:40 J.S.T. Finale femmes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Comme beaucoup d’entre nous le savent, l’escalade sera un sport […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1863,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_joinchat":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[246],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4729","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog-fr"],"yoast_head":"\n
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